Home Audio Projects Guide

Tackling a home audio project which incorporates installed speakers can be a daunting task, and it should not be undertaken without the proper knowledge. Unfortunately we all too often speak to customers (and professional installers believe it or not) who plough head first into AV projects making assumptions which often lead to costly errors or mistakes that ultimately compromise the functionality and performance of the end result. By taking a few moments to read this article and understand the basics of integrated home entertainment systems and their installation, you could save yourself a lot of headaches, cost, and disappointment.

Please note that this is a crash course in installed AV systems, their specification, wiring, and installation to help you understand the basics and avoid the most common mistakes. If you require any further information or would like to discuss your specific requirements then please get in touch with our team.

Music Systems

This section will cover integrated music systems and multiroom audio, which can be anything from a single room like a kitchen, to installing speakers throughout the house and garden. Here we will focus on ceiling speakers (since that's our thing!), but in-wall speakers, on-wall speakers, or freestanding speakers may also be options that follow the same principals.

Multiroom audio refers to a system which allows rooms to be grouped together so they behave as one, or be fully independent. In a true multiroom system the same music can be played in sync across multiple ‘zones’, or each zone can be independent for different users simultaneously.

There are two types of in-ceiling multiroom audio systems; ones that use passive speakers, and ones that use active speakers. Let's look at the differences, how they are wired, and some tips for their installation.

Passive Speakers for Music

Almost all in-ceiling speakers are passive. This means they are powered by a separate amplifier via speaker cable. This is just like traditional Hi-Fi systems (if you can remember those!). Passive speaker systems offer the most flexibility, upgradability, the widest range of component options, and typically the best sound quality, so if you want ceiling speakers this is usually the best choice. Let's take a look at some of the key points of passive speaker systems and how to install them.

• The Equipment - Most amplifiers (like the Sonos Amp for example) are stereo, meaning they have 2 amplifier channels (left and right) and must be connected to pairs of speakers. One stereo amplifier is required per room/zone. You cannot run an entire home from a single stereo amp. Some specialist multiroom amplifiers may provide amplification and control for multiple rooms, but as a rule, if it is stereo and has 2 channels, it can only service one room. Most modern streaming amplifiers are built around this scalable principle, including the Sonos Amp, Marantz MODEL M1, Denon Home Amp, Naim CI-Uniti 102, Bluesound Powernode, WiiM Amp etc.

• A Single Speaker? - It is possible to connect a single ceiling speaker to a stereo amplifier, but it must be a special single stereo model. These have two tweeters and separate left/right inputs to give a partial stereo sound from a single speaker. When wiring these they must be treated like a stereo pair in terms of their cabling.

• How Many Speakers? - Decide on 1, 2 or 4 speakers for each room. Most stereo amplifiers can easily power 4 speakers simultaneously. The number of speakers typically depends on the size of the room as you want to get an even spread of sound across the space. For example: 1 stereo speaker for an en-suite bathroom, 2 speakers for a bedroom, or 4 speakers for a large kitchen/diner. 6 or more speakers may be possible, but this is less common and requires some consideration regarding amplifier loading, so please contact us for further advice. Other than small rooms with single stereo speakers, you need to install passive speakers in even numbers, so don’t do 3 or 5 for example.

• Speaker Placement - Position ceiling speakers in the room to give the best coverage. If it’s a pair, then centrally spaced apart is usually best (eg. 2m apart in a 4m wide room). If using 4 speakers then position them in a square or rectangle, similar to the space, but inset. Avoid placing speakers too close to a wall as this can adversely affect the sound quality. Position in stereo pairs above areas like kitchen/dining spaces for example. If the room is an odd shape then position for coverage - most amps will have a dual mono mode to improve performance where stereo positioning doesn’t work. You’ll find more information on speaker placement in our FAQ.

• Speaker Wiring - With the exception of single stereo speakers (see below), if you have 2, 4, 6 etc. speakers then each one will need a separate 2-core speaker cable installed back to the amplifier. If you have 4 speakers you will have 4 cables at the amp. Do not loop speakers together or connect them to each other in any way in the ceiling.

• Single Stereo Speaker Wiring - Single stereo speakers need to be treated like stereo pairs. They have separate left and right inputs for stereo. You can either wire these with 2x 2-core speaker cables, or a special 4-core speaker cable. Either cable type is fine, but 4-core may be a little easier to install if the cable run is long or you are installing multiple single stereo speakers at the same time.

• Cable Type - Ceiling speaker cabling should be a minimum of 16-gauge (16 AWG), 100% oxygen free copper, and fire rated with a low smoke zero halogen outer jacket (sometimes referred to a LSHF, LSZH or LSOH). Select 2-core for single speakers in 2, 4, 6 etc. stereo configurations, and 4-core for single stereo speakers (or 2x 2-core). Do not use electrical flex, Ethernet cable, thin gauge bell wire, or any other type of cable designed for other applications. Doing so could seriously affect audio performance.

• Amplifiers Location: Media Hub - Installing all your multiroom amplifiers in the same location is a good solution if you have the option. Having a neat collection of amps in a cupboard or service area keeps everything together, minimises clutter in the rooms, and may simplify installation. Be sure to label the speaker cables as they are installed so you know which rooms and speaker locations they serve. Consider providing this location with an Ethernet cable feed from your router so the amplifiers can be hardwired to the internet for maximum reliability.

• Amplifiers Location: Local or Multiple Locations - If you can’t install all your amplifiers in the same location or you are only wiring a single room, then the amplifier(s) can be installed wherever is convenient. Common locations might include an AV unit below a TV, a kitchen cabinet, or a loft space. Be sure the amp can get a good Wi-Fi signal if no Ethernet connection is available. It is not recommended to install amplifiers in a ceiling void or other inaccessible space in case it needs to be accessed for maintenance.

• Amplifier Wiring - A typical multiroom streaming amplifier like the popular Sonos Amp needs mains power and the connections to your speakers. For basic functionality that’s it, however also consider that you can connect a TV via HDMI ARC, an auxiliary source like a turntable via analog phonos, and hardwire it to your router via Ethernet for reliable network access. An amplifier which says it’s ‘wireless’ is likely referring to its internet connection. No systems are truly wire-free. All amplifiers need power and physical connections to speakers.

• Wiring Speakers to Amp - If you have a pair of speakers or a single stereo speaker then the wiring is simply left speaker to left amp output (positive & negative), and right speaker to right amp output (positive & negative). If you have 4 speakers you essentially have 2 stereo pairs, so you can double up the wiring and simply connect 2 speakers to left and 2 to right. Please see a 4 speaker wiring example here.

• Buying Speakers - Some manufacturers box ceiling speakers singly, and some box them in pairs, so make sure you order the correct number. We have a range of amp and speaker packages which makes it easy to buy the right components for a room depending on your requirements. As a rule, the more a ceiling speaker costs the better it will sound. Passive ceiling speakers can last a lifetime, so under-speccing them is often a false economy. We recommend 8”+ driver models for maximum performance in larger spaces. All models come with a white cosmetic grilles to blend in with the ceiling (black grilles are available for select models, and all grilles can be spray painted with care if required to match your décor).

• Sub Zones - Amplifiers represent a large part of the cost of passive ceiling speaker systems. The best setup is one which has an amplifier per room/zone, however there are situations where a sub zone can be created without the need for its own amplifier. Some examples of this are an en-suite bathroom off a bedroom amplifier, or a pair of outdoor speakers off a kitchen amplifier. In these examples, different music playing at the same time may not be required, but the ability to turn the individual zones on and off is. As a cost saving, a single amplifier can power and control both zones but splitting its output with a speaker switch. This does complicate system operation slightly, as the switch is either a manual button or a smart switch with its own app for control, but it can be a good solution in some scenarios. However it is important to understand that the main zone and sub zone in a setup like this can only play the same content at the same volume, and the amplifier power is shared by all the speakers. The only control is on/off of each pair of speakers in each zone. Speaker switch capacity is expressed in ‘ways’ of speaker pairs, so if you have 2 speakers in a bedroom and 2 (or 1 single stereo) in a bathroom, then you need a 2-way switch. If you have 4 speakers in a kitchen, and 2 outdoors, then you need a 3-way switch (even if the 4 internal speakers will always be on together).

• Setup Tips - Amps will typically have EQ or sound equaliser controls such as bass and treble which you can adjust to your liking. Controls like ‘Loudness’ can make your speakers sound more ‘punchy’, but these extreme EQ presets often have a negative impact on sound fidelity, so use them with caution. If you have a Sonos Amp, Sonos speakers, and an Apple device, then you can make use of the Sonos Trueplay tuning system which will calibrate the sound for the room it is installed in. We also recommend setting up a volume limit, which most streaming amps will have a setting for. Driving any amp to maximum can destroy speakers regardless of their power rating due to high energy distortion. Some users may be tempted to push the system to its maximum, and this is very likely to result in speaker damage. Setting a volume limit is highly recommended. If you never run the system past 50% for example, then set the limiter there to be safe.
  

Key Points of Passive Ceiling Speaker Systems for Music

• Most ceiling speakers are passive

• Passive speakers need a separate amplifier

• Most streaming amplifiers are stereo and can support up to 4 speakers

• One amplifier is required per room/zone

• Each room will have 1, 2 or 4 speakers depending on size

• If installing 1 speaker it must be a single stereo model

• Single stereo speakers must be wired with a 4-core cable or 2x 2-core cables

• Wire all speakers individually back to the amplifier

• Consider using a speaker switch for sub zones, but understand their limitations

• Set volume limits on amplifiers to prevent your speakers from being overdriven

Active Speakers for Music

A few ceiling speaker models are active, meaning they have an amplifier built into the speaker itself. These can be a good solution for some installations, and can make it easier to retrofit ceiling speakers if running speaker cable back to an amplifier for passive speakers would be difficult. 

Active speakers connect to your phone/tablet directly via Bluetooth or over Wi-Fi (eg. AirPlay 2 or Chromecast). As a result their reliability is dependent on good Wi-Fi or close proximity of the playing device. They may not be the best solution for all installations, especially large properties or complex setups. Please contact us if you require further guidance on the suitability of active speaker systems.

• Advantages of Active Ceiling Speakers - Potentially easier to install and require less cabling. More cost effective in most cases. Bluetooth only models are a cost effective solution for non-multiroom applications (eg. a bathroom).

• Disadvantages of Active Ceiling Speakers - The speakers need a permanent mains power supply which may require an electrician. They are not as flexible and do not have as many features as passive speaker systems with separate amplifiers. They are limited to one speaker choice in terms of sound quality. Bluetooth only models cannot be grouped together for true multiroom audio.

• How Many Speakers? - Unlike passive systems, active speakers can be used on their own, essentially in mono. If you want a stereo pair then these come as master/slave pairs. The master speaker houses the amplifier and all the clever bits for Wi-Fi etc. The slave speaker is, as it happens, just a dumb passive speaker, and this is connected to the master speaker via a length of speaker cable (supplied in the kit). The combination is a left/right stereo pair, both powered by the master. However a master speaker can only support one slave speaker, so rooms requiring 4 speakers would need 2 separate master/slave pairs. This is best done with the Wi-Fi models for easy wireless grouping of the individual pairs. Bluetooth only models can be linked, but this requires additional cabling, so please contact us if you require more information on interconnected Bluetooth pairs.

• Speaker Wiring - As mentioned above, an active ceiling speaker system for a typical room will either consist of a single master speaker or a master/slave pair. The master speaker must be wired to a permanent mains power supply. This supply can either come from the permanent side of a lighting circuit, a spur off a ring main / radial circuit, or a nearby 13A socket. But in all cases the supply should be fused down to 3A. Unless you know exactly what you’re doing please get an electrician to wire in the master speaker. Mains wiring is not something that should be tackled without the proper knowledge. If you then have a slave speaker to add, this is simply connected to the master speaker via the supplied speaker cable. This is a physical cable connection so please make sure it can be run between the two speakers. Finally, active speakers may have additional connectivity for auxiliary equipment such as TVs or turntables via optical and analog connections if required.

• Wi-Fi or Bluetooth? - Bluetooth only active ceiling speakers are the most basic, but also the most cost effective. Bluetooth models can be a good solution for simple applications like a bathroom or basic music streaming in a small kitchen. But Bluetooth does have its limitations. Wi-Fi models provide true multiroom audio functionality, and can be grouped with other master ceiling speakers, or speakers that support Apple AirPlay or Google Chromecast. Wi-Fi also provides better bandwidth for higher quality audio, and greater wireless range.

Key Points of Active Ceiling Speaker Systems for Music

• Active speakers have a built-in amplifier

• Active speaker pairs consist of one master speaker and one (passive) slave speaker

• The master speaker needs to be mains powered

• The slave speaker needs to be physically connected to the master via speaker cable

• Bluetooth connections require close proximity to the master speaker

• Wi-Fi connections require the speaker to have strong Wi-Fi connectivity

• Active speakers may be unsuitable for large properties or complex installations

Home Cinema

Home cinema systems have been popular for decades. Surround sound systems provide a level of immersion that was once only available in commercial cinemas and theatres. Today, the availability of 3D spatial audio formats like Dolby Atmos on consumer content and via streaming services has refuelled the home cinema experience with even greater immersion.

If you want a home cinema system, then the first thing to know is that nothing much has changed in terms of equipment type and installation. A few companies like Sonos have developed their own take on surround sound systems with specific equipment setups that are easy to understand and install, but a ‘proper’ home cinema with Dolby Atmos speakers overhead (where they are supposed to be!) is still done with an array of passive speakers and a big multi-channel amplifier (or AV receiver). Here we are going to discuss these proper home cinema systems, and how to install them.

If lots of speakers, lots of cables, and a big AV receiver doesn’t sound like fun to you, but you still want an immersive audio experience for TV, movies and gaming, then go and look at the soundbars and AV packages that Sonos offer. These still provide great performance for most users, and they will be far easier to setup and operate than a traditional home cinema system. If, however, you want the best sound quality and the most immersive audio experience, then keep reading.

• Configuration - There are many different surround sound configurations. We won’t go into details here as that’s a complete article in itself! 5.1.2 is a typical Dolby Atmos setup for an average sized room. A large room or one with tiered seating might work better with 5.1.4 or 7.1.4. Our advice is to work up from 5.1.2 as the base Dolby Atmos setup, but don’t over complicate it. If you don’t get enough separation between your speaker channels you could end up making it sound worse. Also, if your seating is against the back wall, 4 Atmos channels, which should be positioned in front of and behind the seating position, won’t work as intended.

• Speakers - Let’s take a 5.1.2 system as an example. This has 3 front speakers (left/centre/right), 2 surround speakers (rear left & rear right), 2 overhead Atmos speakers (left & right), and a single subwoofer. The speakers don’t all need to be the same (and rarely are) but you do want to keep all of them from the same manufacturer, and ideally all from the same range. This ensures that all the speakers will have roughly the same audio characteristics. The exception to this rule is the subwoofer as it’s doing a very different job. The most important speakers are the front left/centre/right. These do the majority of the work, and it’s where you will notice the sound quality most, so often these channels are larger and more expensive.

• Speaker Type - The advantage of home cinema systems that use passive speakers is that you can pretty much configure them however you want. For maximum performance in-wall speakers, on-wall speakers, or freestanding speakers will perform best for the front channels. Getting the left, centre and right speakers positioned around the screen will give you a wall of sound that correlates to the on-screen action. However, if a super discreet home cinema system is needed so it blends seamlessly into your home, then all the speakers can be in-ceiling if you use specialist models designed for the job which have angled drive units to direct the sound towards the listener. The ideal position for surround speakers is ear level when seated, so in-wall, on-wall, or freestanding speakers work best here. But ceiling speakers can also work well as surround speakers if you want a more discreet option for that part of your system.

• Dolby Atmos Speakers - Atmos speakers are positioned above the listener and are typically ceiling speakers. Upward firing ‘Atmos Enabled’ speakers do not produce true Dolby Atmos. If you want proper Atmos then the speakers must be above you. These channels provide a third dimension to the sound by adding height to the base layer (front and rear). In a 5.1 system the audio of a helicopter flying overhead goes from front to back. In a 5.1.2 or 5.1.4 Dolby Atmos system the helicopter sound actually travels overhead, providing much more realism. In a small room where the front and rear speakers are relatively close, 2 Atmos speakers (centre left/right) is probably sufficient. But in a larger room where there is more separation between front and rear, 4 Atmos speakers are the ideal, since they are positioned ahead and behind the listening position for maximum immersion. Properly positioned Dolby Atmos speakers fire straight down, so essentially any ceiling speaker can be used as an Atmos channel.

• Speaker Wiring - All surround sound speakers (with the exception of the subwoofer in most cases) need to be wired with a 2-core, 16 gauge minimum, copper speaker cable. An industry standard installation cable like CX16/2 will do the job. Although some higher end systems will warrant a more advanced thicker gauge cable. Each of the speaker channels will need its own cable, so if you have a 5.1.2 system, then you will have 7 cables as there are 7 main channels (excluding the subwoofer). These will all be run back to the AV receiver that powers the speakers.

• Subwoofer - A subwoofer is a critical component of any home cinema system as it provides the very low frequencies needed for that ‘cinema feel’. Subwoofers are a dedicated channel in their own right, creating very deep bass sounds, rumble and atmosphere. But they also help provide bass reinforcement for the other channels, boosting their low frequency performance if they can’t produce it. Home cinema is very demanding when it comes to a wide frequency range and dynamic sound. A subwoofer lifts any audio system with power and dynamics.

• Subwoofer Type - Most subwoofers are active (self-amplified) freestanding cabinets. This is the most common type of subwoofer, and they provide the best ‘bang for the buck’ when it comes to bass. Size is important. A bigger subwoofer will produce lower bass frequencies and typically more power - all the things you need for bass that you can really feel! If you can’t accommodate a freestanding subwoofer, then in-wall or in-ceiling subs are possible. But these are more complicated to install and don’t usually give as good performance for the money compared to standalone subs. Installed subwoofers are also passive speakers, so the addition of a dedicated subwoofer amplifier is required for these. Your AV receiver will not be able to power a passive subwoofer directly.

• Subwoofer Wiring - Unlike the main speaker channels, a subwoofer is typically active and has its own amplifier. It is sent a low frequency (LFE) signal by a pre-out (non-amplified output) on the AV receiver. This is a line level signal which has a very low voltage. As a result it is susceptible to interference and the cable must be screened, so the cables used for subwoofer connections are Phono-to-Phono (sometimes called an RCA cable). A single RCA cable carries the signal to the subwoofer, where it is amplified by the subwoofer’s own amplifier. These cables are typically supplied as pre-terminated specific lengths, so plan your subwoofer location and get the appropriate cable length. Do not wire a subwoofer with speaker cable unless you are installing a passive subwoofer. The connections for a passive subwoofer would go like this; 1. AVR >>> subwoofer amplifier (RCA/Phono cable). 2. Subwoofer amplifier >>> installed subwoofer driver(s) (speaker cable - one per driver).

• AV Receiver - The AV receiver or AV amplifier is the heart of your home cinema system. It not only powers your speakers, but it also processes the audio and video signals from connected sources like TV audio (apps), Sky boxes, Blu-ray players, games consoles, and media players. Your speakers, source devices, and TV/projector will all connect to the AV receiver, so it must be located somewhere sensible like underneath the TV in a cabinet. Please note that AV receivers are complex pieces of electronics. They are quite large, and can run fairly hot due to the number of amplifiers they house. Ensure you have sufficient space, and allow for the connections at the back. AVRs crammed into unsuitable cupboards causing badly bent cables and overheating due to lack of space is all too common.

• Home Cinema Setup - AV receivers are quite sophisticated these days. They have automatic calibration procedures which use a microphone positioned in/around the listening area to accurately calibrate each speaker for distance delay, level, equalisation and acoustic room correction. Follow the instructions and do exactly what the AV receiver says. You will get the option to tweak the settings later if you choose. Our top tips for calibration and setup are…

• Follow the microphone placement instructions exactly. The Audyssey system employed by Denon and Marantz for example, will tell you to calibrate in up to 8 locations. But don’t just plonk the microphone in every seating position. The measurements should be taken around a central seating position and no more than 60cm apart. For the most accurate calibration follow the on-screen instructions exactly.

• Unless you have speakers which can produce subwoofer frequencies (which you won’t!), make sure they are all set to ‘small’ during the calibration procedure. If the auto calibration wrongly detects a speaker as large, correct this manually. And if you have floorstanding speakers which you consider to be large, well they are not - at least not in acoustic terms. Speakers set to large will be sent the entire frequency range, with none of it going to the subwoofer. Even big speakers can’t go as low as a subwoofer, and you want the sub to take over at the point where the speaker’s frequency response drops off. Setting any speakers to large will ultimately mean that channel will have an acoustic hole in its low end reproduction.

• Resist the urge to manually correct speaker distances, especially the subwoofer. If they look a bit off there is probably a reason. Subwoofer electronics can add a bit of delay to a signal, so this can make the ‘physical’ on-screen measurements look odd. We recommend trusting in the auto calibration here.

• Although the auto calibration is usually quite accurate, it can be worth double checking the channel levels manually with a sound pressure level meter. A smart phone app will suffice. Also, if you find the dialogue a little quiet, it is not uncommon to increase the centre channel a little. Some AV receivers will also have a dialogue level setting which basically does the same thing.

• The crossover settings for each speaker can be adjusted after calibration if required. This is the point at which frequencies are diverted to the subwoofer (assuming you correctly set your speakers as ‘small’). Auto calibration will normally do a good job, but if you know the frequency response of your speakers and feel the setting is incorrect then it can be adjusted.

• If the content you are watching has a digital soundtrack such as Dolby Atmos, then the AV receiver will always process this accordingly, and usually display this on the front panel. The plethora of sound modes available in AVRs are not much use, and are really only there for audio with no surround encoding like stereo so you can turn 2-channel audio into something more. If you have good floorstanding or other large front speakers, stereo music may well sound better purely in stereo mode (+sub). But some may prefer a more ‘surround’ type experience for music, in which case modes like ‘Dolby Pro Logic Music’ or ‘Multi-Channel Stereo’ are worth trying.

• If you can’t get the audio working from your TV apps then the ARC (Audio Return Channel) setup may be incorrect. Make sure the AV receiver HDMI output is connected to the ARC compatible HDMI input on the TV (there is only one and it may not be HDMI 1). The ARC settings on the TV and AV receiver will both need to be on. These sometimes have a manufacturer specific name like Anynet+ (Samsung) or Simplink (LG). Also, make sure the ARC audio output on the TV is set to ‘passthrough’ or similar so the TV sends the audio to the AV receiver unprocessed.

• Dolby Atmos can be great for music as well as movies. Currently this is limited to specific devices and music streaming services, but TV apps like Tidal can stream Dolby Atmos content to your AV receiver for an immersive music experience.

Key Points of Home Cinema Systems

• Choose a suitable surround sound configuration for your room

• Wire each speaker with a 2-core speaker cable

• Wire the subwoofer with a Phono/RCA cable (unless it is passive)

• Install the AV receiver in a suitable location and be aware of its size and its space requirements for cables and ventilation

• Install all your cabling back to the AV receiver. All your speakers and source equipment will connect to it. A single HDMI cable will transmit the selected source to the TV, and also provide an Audio Return Channel for TV apps audio back to the AVR

• Follow the AV receiver setup and calibration instructions exactly. Don’t rush the setup

• Always set your speakers to ‘small’ during calibration, even if they are physically big

• Tweak certain AV receiver settings if required, but only after a full auto calibration

• Let the AV receiver correctly process digital audio formats, and avoid selecting specific sound modes except for stereo content

In Conclusion

Home audio which involves connecting individual components and installing structured wiring throughout a property might seem complicated, but the principals are relatively straightforward. We work with customers everyday to help them install systems efficiently, and with the right guidance, even technophobes can do so without professional assistance.

If you’re embarking on a project yourself because you want a DIY solution, or to save money on professional installation, then make sure you arm yourself with the proper knowledge before going ahead. Unless you’re employing the services of a professional AV installer, then do also be aware that other trades willing to tackle AV installations may not necessarily have all the required knowhow. Sadly we do talk to customers almost on a daily basis who have put their trust in unqualified professionals who have made a mess of the installation. And once a building is at the finishing stage, it can be very difficult and costly to put any issues right.

Overcomplicating the system specifications and cutting corners to save a few pounds are also mistakes to avoid. Think about how easy the system will be to use, and who will be using it. For example, adding speaker switches to save on the cost of amplifiers in multiroom audio can work well in certain situations, but this adds an extra layer of complexity which some users may find unintuitive. If there are budget constraints, then try and focus that budget on the areas that will be used most. It is also worth installing the cabling for areas where you might want to add speakers in the future. Adding cable at the first-fix build stage is cheap compared to retrofitting it later, which can be very difficult and disruptive.

Hopefully this article has given you some valuable tips to help you navigate a home audio project and avoid the most common mistakes. For equipment quotations, recommendations, and further technical advice, please contact our knowledgeable team.